suite for barbara loden by nathalie léger

Study it, follow the roads, examine the housing estates, squares, alleyways, parking lots. See the landscapes, forests, valleys, waterways, the lines of the highways, urban agglomerations, roundabouts and junctions, industrial zones right by huge cemeteries. Look at Europe from above as if it were an immense maquette. In among all the commotion and jubilation, a melancholy accordion provided the soundtrack for the improbable ceremony of a bride setting out beneath an overcast sky on a journey to save the world. Friends and family came to Casa dei Morigi for a big party and the first foot-washing. Her departure was fixed for 8 March 2008. The cape was for her to wear in countries where women are required to cover their hair, and to dry feet after they were washed. The fabric petals that formed the skirt represented all the countries to be crossed, like the blank pages of the notebook on which Pippa was planning to write an account of her journey. For the dress, Pippa worked with a designer to whom she explained at length what she wanted. The dress, the white, the foot-washing, the ash, accessories, images, arguments, everything had to be terribly significant.

The wood residues had to be salvaged, mixed with rainwater and left to infuse for a week, the mixture then filtered through a piece of fine cloth to obtain the ash extract that would then be poured into a small container. The ashes would be used to make soap for washing the dress. She sent out invitations by email: ‘If you would like to contribute to the bride’s journey, come and burn something for me.’ On a cold, wet afternoon, on Sunday 17 February 2008, she lit a huge fire in the little garden at the back of the building, and everyone, I find it quite chilling, came with an object to burn – a letter, some old papers, spices, an issue of Vanity Fair, a second-hand copy of the I Ching, greetings cards wishing her safe travels – to throw on the fire. A few weeks before her departure, Pippa Bacca organized a bonfire in the garden of her studio on Via Filippo Argelati, in Milan. The dress would need to be washed occasionally.

Suite for barbara loden by nathalie léger